Tag Archives: St. Augustine

31 Days/ 31 Ways: day 12 twelve coming soon….

What an amazing day!

Instead of telling the story of another local surfer, we decided to have a nearly-mid-month expression session day. Daniel Florez, Rachel and I set out to create a stop action/ time lapse movie beginning at sunrise at Matanzas Inlet. We still had a bit of swell, and rode all sorts of different wave sliding devices: surf mats, old logs, single fins, a super soft top even an alaia.

Since the editing of stop action takes so long, we won’t be able to get the video up just yet, as we have about 10,000 photos to sort through and string together into a motion picture. So, here are a few stills in the mean time. Our little film will be up in the next few days.




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31 Days/ 31 Ways: “Silly, Selfish, and Fun”

Day ten of 31 Days/ 31 Ways explores the traditional surfing style and not so traditional perspectives of Bryan Crowder.

Maybe it’s just because I’m partial to a man that can knee paddle and noseride, but I really enjoy surfing with Bryan. We have totally different perspectives on all sorts of things, but I always appreciate having him around. He’s a hilarious guy and I really enjoy watching him surf. Also, I love his 10′ Bing.

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31 days/ 31 ways: “Morning of the Mo”

Day nine of 31 Days/ 31 Ways explores the new found love of longboarding by lovely lady slider and yogini Lex Weinstein.


In Joy!

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31 Days/ 31 Ways: “Birthday Nostalgia”

Hello friends!

My apologies for the slight delay in getting days 8 and 9 posted.

The 8th was my birthday and my friends here in St. Augustine threw me the most amazing birthday party I could have imagined. There was so much love, music, food, and gratitude that I felt like an explosion of joy. It was the kind of feeling and memory that I will never forget. Thank you so much to all that took the time to come and hang out. It was breathtakingly beautiful and I haven’t stopped smiling since. Loving, loving, loving.

Day eight of 31 Days/ 31 Ways explores the history of my first surfboard and it’s original owner, my dad.


Thanks again to Jacob Hamilton for lending his lovely music for this story.

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31 Days/ 31 Ways: “History and Blindfolds”

Day seven of 31 Days/ 31 Ways explores the historical significance of my homebreak, as told by Jacob Hamilton. We also attempt surfing blindfolded, which, as you might guess, is not so easy.

Many great poets and orators have used blindfolding as a technique for memorizing long written passages, as shutting down one sense allows the brain to focus more intently on others. We decided to shut down our sense of sight, too, to experience surfing through our other senses. To me it felt like tumbling through space, with all of these different forces pushing and pulling against me and it make me kind of nauseous, actually. Nevertheless, it was hilarious and great fun.

Thanks to Jacob Hamilton for being one of the most perpetually stoked folks I know!

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31 Days/ 31 Ways: “Making things and building things”

Day six of 31 Days/ 31 Ways features architect (and great friend of mine) Alex Davis logging in St. Augustine, Florida and talking about the art of using your hands. In the video you’ll see Alex carving out a little bodysurfing handplane, which will be used on a later day when the surf allows for it. Stay tuned…..

Thanks so much to talented local lads Jacob and Lucas of The Rivernecks for providing the music for day 6.

In joy!

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31 Days/ 31 Ways: “Foundry Stoke”

Day four features the all-encompassing stoke of The Foundry Surf Team, a community of surfers that meets weekly in St. Augustine, FL.


I really broke the whole “31 Ways” theme today by riding three or four different boards, but I’m not really committed to any rules with this project.

I rode a Hansen “The Master” model log from the 60′s, a Walden 8’0, a board shaped by one of the Foundry kids’ dad, and my longboard, Daphne.

It seemed like there was a bit more swell today, which is promising for the hope of not only exploring the realm of longboarding in the month of October. I can’t complain for a second though, it was a warm, sunny day, and the water is still 80 degrees (F).


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